Chainsaws are valuable for cutting large items because of their long guide bars. Electric chainsaw guide bars are available in lengths up to 18 inches. Gas chainsaws range even longer—up to 40 inches. As long as you adhere to your chainsaw’s safety precautions, there is no reason using a chainsaw should be anything but safe, even if you have never used one before.
Typical Projects With a Chainsaw
Chainsaws are intended only for cutting wood, in projects such as:
Felling trees within the chainsaw’s operating diameter Cutting (or bucking) fallen trees into smaller sections, either for firewood or disposal Pruning large branches from trees Cutting pruned branches into small sections for composting or disposal Pollarding trees
Chainsaw vs. Reciprocating Saw
A chainsaw is meant for outdoor use on trees and limbs. A reciprocating saw is mostly used for cutting lumber for construction projects. Even so, many gardeners and do-it-yourselfers use reciprocating saws along with chainsaws for outdoor jobs.
Chainsaw Safety Tips
Chainsaws can be operated efficiently and safely. Be sure to carefully read your chainsaw’s operator’s manual, as all chainsaws are different. The operator’s manual is your complete guide to the safe operation of your chainsaw.
Understand All Parts of the Chainsaw
Learn about each part of the chainsaw and its function before powering up the saw. For example, it can be easy to confuse the chain brake and the handle, as they look alike and are located in approximately the same position.
Tension the Chain Properly
Before turning on, plugging in, or otherwise activating the chainsaw, make sure that the chain is properly tensioned on the guide bar. A loose chain may whip free or draw materials into it. A tight chain may not move at all.
Prevent Kickback
Chainsaw kickback happens when the upper quadrant of the nose of the chainsaw guide bar touches an object when the chain is moving. Another cause of kickback is when the wood or any other object closes in and pinches the moving chain. Chainsaws with smaller guide bars have a reduced (but not eliminated) chance of kickback. Never cut a tree or branch with a diameter wider than the length of the chainsaw’s guide bar. A guide bar is the solid metal section that protrudes from the front of the chainsaw and over which the chain slides. Avoid touching the front end of the saw to any surface during operation.
Limit Proximity to Saw Chain
Chainsaws not only can cut you, but you might become entangled in their rapidly moving chains. Clothing, hair, jewelry, gloves, and anything loose might get caught between the chain and the guide bar, drawing you toward the saw or the saw toward you.
Protect Hearing and Eyes
With chainsaws, hearing and eye protection are both required. An average gasoline-powered chainsaw produces a noise of about 120 dBs—just under the sound of a military jet lifting off. Debris blowback, too, is the norm with chainsaw operations, making eye protection mandatory.
Avoid Touching the Chain, Even When Stationary
Chainsaws’ chains are very sharp. Even when the chain is not moving, it can severely lacerate the skin. Be sure to keep the cover on the saw when not in use.
How to Use a Chainsaw
Chainsaw Maintenance Tips
Use proper oil suited for chainsaws. Do not use motor oil.Never store the chainsaw wet. Always dry off the chainsaw after use.Empty gasoline from the chainsaw before long periods when it won’t be used.Keep the chain properly tensioned.Make sure that the air filter on gas models is clean. Change as needed.
When to Replace the Chain
If you believe that the chain may be dull or damaged, remove the chain from the saw and examine it closely. Any of these conditions may mean that the chain needs to be replaced:
All cutting links should move freely yet should still be tightly attached. They should not be rusted.The chain should not move from side to side. If it wobbles from side to side, this indicates loose links.The bottom of the links should still have a curved shape to properly interlock with the saw’s sprocket. If the curved shape has worn away, the sprocket cannot safely move the chain.
When to Sharpen the Chain
The leading edges of the chain’s teeth should be angled and sharp. You should feel an edge similar to a dull paring knife when you run your fingers along the chain. If the blade is dull, it can be manually sharpened with a metal file and a Speed Square. For more accurate sharpening, or for frequent sharpening, purchase an electric sharpener. Available for $50 to $100, electric sharpeners have built-in angle guides.
